The Sureau Dress

As it is turning quite Autumnal here in Auckland, I felt the need to make a thicker dress, the type you would wear with leggings and boots. The Sureau dress from Deer and Doe seemed like the perfect pattern. 

The Fabric

The pattern recommends using a medium weight fabric such as cotton, chambray, lightweight linen or denim. I searched a couple of fabric shops hoping to find a nice light blue denim, similar colour to the dress on the model on the Deer and Doe website. However, I could not find what I wanted. I didn’t want to use a thick denim, just a lightweight denim in a light blue shade. Have I made this up? Does it even exist?

So I found this fabric and have to admit, not too sure what it is. I remember looking at what it was made from when I bought it but as soon as I left the shop it went out of my head. It’s a woven fabric using some form of cotton blend, he he. It has a tweed thickness to it (all of these terms are professional sewing terms ha ha). I loved the pattern of it, but now I have turned it into a dress, I feel like a walking curtain. It actually blends into my sofa quite well, great for disguising myself as a sofa. I wasn’t too sure about it as an actual dress. It’s definatley meant to be used for upholstery and not dressmaking. However, I received a lot of love for it on my Instagram page from some very talented ladies who know what they are talking about when it comes to dressmaking, so my confidence in this dress was suddenly lifted.

After taking the photos for this blog post, I got changed into something else and knew that I probably wouldn’t wear it again. I had to do something about it. I realised it was the sleeves that were causing the problem. They were just too much. I had a great idea to take the sleeves out and wear it as a pinafore type dress. So I did, and here it is, the new improved version, which you will be pleased to know I am now wearing.



The Zip

I must mention the zip. The pattern states to use a centered zip or an invisible zip. I didn’t want to use a centered zip as that would mean stitches would show around the zip, which I thought would ruin the look of this fabric. I also didn’t think I should use an Invisible zip on thick fabric. In hindsight, the fabric isn’t as thick as I thought and possibly could have worked with an invisible zip. Instead, I created my own unique style (in other words, lets give this a go and see what happens). I used a regular zip and sewed it in using an invisible zip method. This way there are no visible stitches around the zip and I think it looks perfect. So there you go, a new technique, The regular, not so invisible zip.



What would I do differently?

It is a perfect Autumn/Winter dress and I love the look with leggings and boots. I have just one issue with this dress. It gapes at the front, so I have to wear a top underneath. I’m not sure if this is due to the thick material or just the fit of the size I cut. I was a bit naughty and didn’t make a toile this time. I knew that if I made a toile, it would sit differently to the real deal because of the fabric thickness. The next time I make this dress, I will make a toile in a similar fabric and use this great tutorial that Anna from has created. She shows how to adjust the bodice to prevent gaping at the front. So what a great excuse to make another one…